Foreword

Because of my concert career, I travel a great (leal and have the opportunity to observe and experience a great variety of cultures all over the world. And I love to eat. When I arrive in a foreign country and am taken to dinner, frequently my host invites me to a French restaurant so I will feel at home. Of course I am quite fond of French cooking, but I do not like to be chauvinistic about it. I try to establish very quickly that I'm a real traveler, that I enjoy discovering things new to me...

The Itamaesan

To get to the top of his profession, that is, to become the master of his own shop, the itamae-san, the man behind the counter, spends a long time in training, often beginning in his mid Historically the itamae-san had something in common with the comedians of Edo. The growth of Edo dates from the beginning of the 17th century, when Tokugawa leyasu established his embarked on construction projects on a huge scale. His capital grew rapidly, people flocked to Edo from all over the country, and...

Futomaki Thick Rolled Sushi

At one time these thick rolls of sushi rice combining a colorful variety of ingredients on the inside and a shiny to , ' sheet of nori seaweed on the outside were called date-maki (dandy rolls) because of their flashy appearance. (Times change. Mr. Omae calls his futo-maki, Rock and Roll. Ed.) Needed for making them are sushi rice, chopping board and bamboo rolling mat, nori and a sharp knife. The following ingredients or any others that strike one's fancy may be included in the filling raw...

Makizushi Rolled Sushi

Sushi made by rolling certain ingredients in nori seaweed with the aid of a small bamboo mat (makisu) and then cutting the rolls into slices is a great favorite in Japan. It is most enjoyable if eaten right after making, while the nori is still crisp, but if eaten later the same day it's still good. It is often found in lunch boxes or sold as a take-out at sushi counters in department and other stores. The two types arc thin rolls (hoso-maki) and. thick rolls ( juto-maki). Depending on the...

Edomaezushi

As we approach the sushi shop, it is a good time to think briefly about this representative Japanese food, for isn't it true that the better we understand the things we eat and the ways they are prepared, the more we appreciate them A charming legend has it that long ago an old man and his wife charitably left some rice in the nest of an osprey living near their house. Later they found fish in the nest. They took the fish home, ate it and were delighted by the intriguing flavor their leftover...

Pickling and the Sushi Shop

The beginning of all sushi making was a method of pickling fish practiced first in Southeast Asia. Long ago the mountain people of that region preserved fish by packing it with rice. As it fermented the rice produced lactic acid, which pickled the fish and kept it from spoiling. It seems probable that it was during prehistoric times when this method ol preservation was introduced to Japan along with rice cultivation. One of the forms it eventually took was nare-zushi, a sushi made with carp in...

Makajiki Swordfish

In Japan, several varieties o swordfish are used for food makajiki (swordfish), mckajiki (broadbill), kurokawa and shirokawa (for which there are no common English names) and so on. All have the rapierlike projection ol one jaw that accounts for the generic English appelation. Highly regarded for its delicate flavor, makajiki was until the middle of the 19th century considered to make the very best sushi. This swordfish reaches a length of 2 meters (about 6 1 j2 feet) and is found from Hokkaido...

Tsukiji

Tokyo has no shortage of wholesale fish markets there are 73 of them in all. But the one everyone knows and the one most closely connected with the sushi trade is the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market, known as Tsukiji from the name of the district in which it is located. It is a huge and fascinating place, both in area and activity. The whole market, which also deals in agricultural produce, covers about 3 hectares (nearly 71 2 acres).Transactions in marine products alone annually run into...

Shoyu Soy Sauce

Because of the way it masks the rawness of fresh uncooked fish and harmonizes with such other ingredients as nori seaweed, soy sauce is indispensable to nigiri-zushi. Indeed, it could be said that without sov sauce, nigiri-zushi would probably never have reached its present state of development. A researcher in Los Angeles has reported on the two favorite aromas of Americans in order they are coffee and soy sauce. Interestingly enough this most oriental of all seasonings is produced in large...

To Make Nigirizushi

The key to good nigiri-zushi is balance between the topping and the rice. It is hand-formed by gently squeezing the ingredients together. Nigiri means squeezing. For one finger of sushi the topping weighs from 12 to 14 grams and the vinegared rice about 2g grams. Before beginning the actual process, arrange on a buffet or serving table a chopping board a sharp knife sashimi-bocho a clean, damp, folded cloth a small bowl of wasabi horseradish and a bowl of vinegared water in which to rinse the...

Awabi Abalone

Awabi is best in April, May and June, and the opening day for divers to begin taking this shellfish is fixed as April i. It is always found in rockv underwater areas near the kombu and nori seaweeds on which it feeds. The divers pry the abalone from the rocks with a forked metal rod. In the days before World War II, the flesh of this marine univalve mollusk was always steamed in salt water before it was used as a sushi topping. Today, however, it appears uncooked, in spite of the fact that its...

Sushi Shops Around the World

Woolloomooloo Sydney 358-2245 188 Victoria St. Kings Cross Sydney 358-1711 Restaurant Suntory 529 Kent St. Sydney 267 2900 I 57 Walker St. North Sydney 922-5744 Menzies I Iotel 14 Carrington St. Sydney 2-0232 Kyoto Restaurant Cremorne Plaza 342 Military Rd. Cremorne Sydney 909-3865 Hotel M ridien 81 Bd Gouvion St. Cyr, Paris 17e 75-8 1230 Yamazato Hotel Okura Ferdinand Bolstraat 17 5 1072 LH Amsterdam 020-787111 Nihonbashi Via Torino 34 Rome 47 6970 Tokyo Restaurant Via di...

Hirame Flounder

Hirame flounder is a fish with a migratory eye. Its right eye is in the usual place when it is young, but as it gets older, the eve moves slowlv to the left side of the head. It lies flat on the bottom of the sea during the daytime, eyes upward, and camouflages itself with a protective coloring just like its surroundings. Avoiding the frozen product, which is widely available, sushi shops make use only of the freshest hirame. Long considered the white fish par excellence for nigiri-zushi in the...