Homemade Chinese Egg Noodles

This egg noodle recipe is the master recipe, which may be used for most of the noodle dishes in this book. The dough itself also doubles as the dough for wontons page 117), spring rolls page 103), and shao mai (page 124). If you use all-purpose flour, the color of the noodle will be off-white and the texture slightly soft. Homemade noodles are always better than commercial ones, and they are not hard to make. Even 1 Vs pounds of noodles kneaded and cut by hand lake only about 30 minutes to...

Fritters with Pork Filling

One of the most unusual doughs from China comes from the taro, a plant ffi with large green leaves sometimes called elephant ears and, to the point here, tuberous root stalks that are edible. The tubers arc usually about iln size of baking potatoes the 4-inch-wide stalk is often cut into long pie< c* When the taro tubers are very fresh, the sprouting ends are pink. In tin Western hemisphere there is a large taro called malanga that is < -*< < M< nt for making the pastry necessary for...

Hot Chili Bean Paste Sauce Sichuan or Hunan Style

The degree of hotness in any pepper dish depends on the number of hot peppers put into it. You can vary the proportion of hot to sweet peppt-r-to suit your taste. This paste has an average hotness. The Vi cup of brown bean sauce denotes the Sichuan style if you use tablespoons of salted black beans and 2 tablespoons of brown bean suu< < the sauce becomes Hunan style. This type of paste is both made here and imported from China it can be purchased in Chinese markets undei < li1 ferent...

Ihredded Pork and Kcdin Snow Noodle Soup

1 I lie people of Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces pickle a delicious vegetable < ailed red-in-snow. It is a leafy green much like the top of a turnip, but it (j i.ism s like mustard greens, and the Chinese preserve both its leaves and its stems. It appears in late winter, and because it is so hardy, even snow ii doesn't prevent it from growing. The name should, of course, be green-in snow, but since the Chinese love red, they put that color in the name. I his plant is also grown in the United...

Beef with Onions on Noodles

Chinese developed many centuries ago to i . conserve fuel it is the quick cooking of small pieces of food in a little oil over high heat. The amount of food cooked must be small so that the heat will seal in the juices, and all the ingredients must be cut approx- imately in the same size and shape such as thin slices 1 by l' a inches, matchstick shreds 2 inches long, or large or small cubes) so they will be done at the same time and also have visual integrity....

Pan Fried Pork Scallion Buns

This is a tasty bun of quick yeast dough stuffed with a scallion and ginger uij infused pork filling. It is often found on restaurant menus and reserved for special occasions at home. The method of cooking a combination ol pan-frying and steaming makes the bottom a crisp brown and the rest of the bun pale and very juicy. Preferably the pan should be nonstick so that if the buns aren't properly sealed, they can easily be removed when done. I sometimes make thirty-two tiny ones rather than the...

Hanghai Spring Rolls

Here is the treasured Shanghai spring roll filling of shredded pork, vege-(1 tables, and seafood for these delicate wrappers. This filling should be jj made ahead of time and chilled so that it's firm when you roll it in the wrappers. If you can manage to serve the spring rolls freshly fried, they will be at their best, but you tan fry them ahead of time. For years my oldest son-in-law, Jimmy, used to say, 1 could have your Shanghai spring rolls anytime. Recently my brand-new son-in-law, Eddy,...

Steamed Dumplings Canton Style in Two Shapes and with Two Fillings

Cantonese har gaw steamed shrimp dumplings) and fun gor (steamed fy meat dumplings) have a very delicate taste the wrappers, made from a mixture of wheal starch and tapioca flour, are extremely light because * ihere is no gluten in the dough, and the traditional fillings are subtly seasoned. The shrimp dumplings are always made in the shape of a pouch and the meat dumplings are always crescent-shaped. Unlike the northern dumplings, which are hearty and eaten as a meal in themselves, these...

Green Jade Noodles Fresh Spinach Noodles

V Ye,its .1 (1, on visii iw Taiwan, I met famous Hunan chef, Mr. Peng, if I wlin I,iter cjimr to New Yni l< (illy and opened a Hunan restaurant, lie I till K III i iic in ni.it' NfVt i ill I I mi ni d Utiles. I ml li in Ittiwatl til id New Yoi k, .iiimiii tin in tin .i lovely linglii ifiren noodles, vvlm li lie prepared liy hand-chopping fresh spinach leaves and combining them with noodle dough. He served them cold, with meat, vegetables, and sauce, just as in die cold noodle salad recipe on...

Steamed Juicy Buns with Two Fillings

These are the famous Yangzhou steamed juicy buns that I mentioned in the recipe for Yangzhou Noodle Soup in Casserole (page 82), whii li In the way makes an excellent accompaniment. These buns are not hard to make. Traditionally one should mix Iwu kinds of dough (a yeast dough and a hot-water dough) and combine thetu into one, so that the dough is tender and yet still has the strength lo hold the chicken broth inside the bun. 1 have simplified the method, putting the leavening in one dough...

Index

Amoy spring rolls (Amoy popia with filling and condiments), 114 116 Ants on a tree, 274-275 Auntie Yuan's Restaurant, 305 Baby chicks, flaky pastry, 188-190 Bacon filling for steamed juicy buns with two fillings, 213 red-cooked fresh, squid, and noodle soup, 86-87 Bai cat, 313 Bai jiao, 326 Bai luobo, 327 Bai mian, 30-31, 317 Bai zhi ma, 323-324 Baked yeast dough buns, 199, 206-208 curried chicken filling for, 211-212 roast pork (Chinese) filling for, 209-210 Bamboo shoots, winter, 31 I...

Glossary

, In the winter, when bamboo shoots first begin to grow, they are col-W lected by digging them up from underground. That is why these shoots are called winter bamboo shoots. They are relatively small in size and are the best tasting of all bamboo shoots. They have a smooth beige-colored shell and, when peeled, are about the size of medium pinecones. Shoots are best eaten fresh. In recent years, during the Chinese New Year, they have become available at the Kam Kuo market in New York City. They...

Shredded Chicken with Sichuan Peppercorn Sauce on Cold Noodles

Ifk Sichuan peppercorns have a pleasant fragrance and a slightly numbing jfJj taste. Here they are roasted, crushed, and mixed with hot oil to provide a the base for this pungent, scrumptious sauce. 'I This recipe can easily be doubled or tripled. Vi pound medium or thin Homemade Chinese Egg Noodles (page 21) 2 tablespoons Zhejiang vinegar or red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons minced whole seal lions oil (recipe follows) 1 small whole chicken breast with bone, about 6 ounces, steamed and boned, and...

Deep Fried Devils

You zha gui are deep-fried strips of dough that are puffy and crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. They are popular throughout China as .i v breakfast or snack dish and are traditionally served wrapped irfiide ses Jfjj ame seed bread and accompanied by soybean milk. They are also deli - cious served with congee (rice gruel, page 296), stuffed with shrimp ot meat, or cut up in broth soups. The origin of the name comes from the Sung dynasty, around a.i> 1200. A great general, Yoh Fei,...

Red Bean Paste Filling

This is a wildly popular filling frequently used in Chinese flaky pastry and steamed buns, cakes, and wontons. It is really the equivalent of chocolate in China. In fact, it resembles a very thick chocolate sauce. Homemade red bean paste is much better than the kind that comes in a can. It isn't hard to make and it is also inexpensive. You can, of course, use canned products to begin the paste the instructions follow. 1 pound dried Chinese or 1 Vt cups sugar or to taste Japanese red beans, or...

Laky Pastry Filled with Red Bean Paste

'' I his sweet pastry is reserved for special occas.ons and served at a special i) tr.i lunch or as dessert after a banquet. The filling can also feature Jujube , Red Date and Nut Filling (page 215) or lotus seed paste (page 316) both ' c 1.1ssi< favorites. In this recipe you make horizontal layers to bake the pastry. You can also shape vertical or spiral layers for a flakier texture and fi y them for a richer flavor (see Flaky Pastry Filled with White Turnips .uid Mam, page 185). These...

Chicken Congee

Chicken congee reminds me of boarding school in Sichuan province dm ing World War II. Plain congee (a thin rice cereal) was the staple dish lit breakfast, accompanied by side dishes of pickled vegetables, fried beans, and, on rare occasions, scrambled eggs. The congee was always served piping hot. You tried to eat the congee in a hurry, because if yotTwete slow, you wouldn't get seconds. I learned the trick to it from my male classmates. First you fill the im bowl to the brim with congee. Then,...

Yi Fu Noodles

F 1 tn* Chinese, especially those from Canton, take the texture of food so lie seriously that (hey sometimes go to extreme lengths to achieve a special lli it Yi fu noodles are a superb example of this passion. Yi fu means house oi Yi, referring to a famous nobleman in the imperial court during tl ' eighteenth century. These equally famous noodles were probably made .it his instigation. I'jcsli soli noodles (e f> or c less) are first boiled, then deep-fried, tin n lioiled a ain, and finally,...

Noodles with Scal Hon and Dried Shrimp Sauce

This Shanghai specialty features an unusual pungent sauce made of < 7f deeply browned scallions and dried shrimp that have been steamed with vaf sherry. Because of the long cooking time, it has a rather dry base of the ' chopped ingredients, with plenty of fragrant oil on top, so you don't need E much to put on the noodles. Because of its rich taste, plain eggless noodles go well with this dish or try it with boiled wontons. A chilled cucumber salad makes a tasty accompaniment to this light...

Millet Congee

Millet is a nonglutinous grain, one of the oldest cultivated foods on eurlli It was a Chinese staple in the north long before the introduction of win u or rice. It was usually eaten boiled, since it cannot be used as flour I m this recipe use the yellow proso variety, which has been carefully hulled il is available at health food stores. This soup is usually drunk plain, without seasonings, as an accompiitn ment to jiao zi dumplings (pages 135 and 141) or Cantonese or Slian li-n spring rolls...

Yangzhou Noodle Soup in Casserole

Yangzhou is a city near Shanghai renowned for its snacks and light meals. Whenever the city's name is used with a dish, it means it is full of sump-(gj tuous ingredients, particularly meat and seafood. Some famous dishes are Yangzhou fried rice, looking like bright jewels Yangzhou meatballs, as light as clouds Yangzhou Steamed juicy Buns with Two Fillings page 212), succulently delectable and this delicious one-dish meal noodle soup served in chicken broth with an array of colorful meats,...

Tofu Crackers

These crunchy fried crackers are inexpensive and easy to make and they are a very tasty and nutritious snack. They look like corn chips and, oddly enough, taste a little like them. They would be perfect to serve with drinks. curd, V inch thick 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon coarse salt 1 tablespoon peanut oil or corn oil approximately 1 tablespoon black sesame seeds Oil for deep-frying, about 3 cups Put the bean curd in a large mixing bowl, and with the back of a large spoon mash...

With White Turnips and

This savory flaky pastry is a classic banquet dish, usually offered after or if with a serving of a clear exotic soup, such as shark fin, bird's nest, or fish maw, It is also marvelous as an appetizer all by itself. It also makes a tasty light meal, accompanied by Steamed Dumplings, Canton-Style (page 147) and Drop Noodles in Two Soups (page 90), followed by Flaky Pastry Filled with Red Bean Paste (page 181). II you cannot find luobo, the Chinese white turnip, substitute grated lender carrots...

Ningbo Glutinous Rice Dumplings Filled with Sesame Seed Paste

This is a famous dessert or snack from Ningbo, in the Zhejiang provirm During the Chinese New Year it is symbolic of family happiness. Ii is tUo appreciated in other areas as well and available frozen in American < nese markets. The frozen ones are large, but of good quality homemudi ones, however, are much better all you need is a little patience. Yield 40 dumplings 6 servings THE SESAME SEED PASTE FILLING 1 Vz cups black sesame seeds 1Yt cups extra-fine sugar 1 cup cold pork leaf lard or...

Jujube Red Date Rice Cake Sweet

This is a classic Chinese cake, particularly in its texture, which is slightly chewy but not sticky. The color is chocolate brown. The cake is usually served as a dessert or snack offering during the New Year celebrations. No egg is used in this cake, which is flavored with jujube red dates, a fragrant and delicious fruit with no comparable substitute. If you can't find them, however, try the recipe without them for the texture. Use l' z cups dark brown sugar instead of the jujube red date jam...

Plain Rice Cake

This is the white, unseasoned rice cake, about ' a inch thick, that has a soft, somewhat chewy texture. The basic point is that it is made with flour created from soaked rice. Traditionally one ground the soaked rice into wet Hour with stone wheels. Then the flour was steamed, kneaded with a stone mortar and pestle, and shaped into small rolls by hand. This project was a once-a-year event in my family's house, and we did it just before the New Year, since these cakes symbolize prosperity. In...

Y in Pi Wontons and I r igons Beard Wontons

J VAN PI HIJNTUN AND LONG XU YAN WAN lii l> i. a specialty of Fujian province in the southeast of China, is a wrap- J i made from ground pork that is pounded into a paste and combined with wheat flour and liquid to make a dough. The dough is rolled into a iIiiii sheet, which is then dried. Because of this complex process, Chinese l.imilies < l(i not make these wrappers at home. You can purchase them in I it im , .n (Ihinese markets. When very fresh, they are slightly damp and Hivi nil the...

Sichuan Spicy Beef Sauce and Noodle Soup

In 1943 I went to Chengdu in Sichuan province and entered Nanking University. Chengdu is referred to by most Chinese as Little Beijing. There are many famous restaurants in the city, but as a student, I could -g- afford to go only to the small noodle shops. These eateries, however, also had a great reputation. One of them always packed with people served this Sichuan spicy beef noodle dish. The sauce was really a thick soup, and it was delicious I went there often, and finally the chef-owner...

Cold Noodle Salad with Sesame Peanut ButterCMi Sauce or Soy Vinegar Sauce

This colorful dish would be perfect for a cold buffet or picnic as well as ) lunch at home. It consists of cold egg noodles, finely shredded meat, and an assortment of crunchy fresh vegetables, and it is served with two sauces the well-known sesame peanut butter chili sauce and a simple tart soy-vinegar sauce. Use either sauce or both in the same meal. Thin steamed egg noodles (pages 21 and 31) have the best texture for this cold dish, but you could also use fresh or dried noodles or spaghet...

Flaky Pastry Egg Custard Tarts

The egg custard is definitely Western in origin, as is the word tart, used even in Chinese. These tarts are a favorite snack or dessert among the Chinese, particularly in Cantonese tea houses. The flaky pastry dough is excellent for this tart shell, although you could substitute your own favot ite pie crust recipe. Vt recipe flaky pastry dough (page 179) 1 cup sugar 3A cup water Yt cup milk FORMING THE TART SHELLS Roll out the folded flaky pastry dough into a sheet S by 12 inches. Fold the...

Chinese Eggless Noodles

he se are a staple < > f the < hi ese home bet au.se ihcy are used so often in sou is, mu h .is Shredded Pork anil lied in Snow Noodle Soup (page H7), I liey ,11 e .liso espei J.llly l.isl y Wit ll ,1 1 if li s.tiii < . mih h id Si< 111 LIU Npn y Bee I S.iiih ,uid Noodle Sou ) (p.ij.*i HU) hi Jlinwn Heart and Meal Saner on Noodles (page 59), since their soft texture and bland taste take readily to seasonings. Good accompaniments are Shanghai Spring Rolls (page 105), Cantonese Spring...

Fish Head Chowder Casserole with Mung Bean Sheets

Here is a recipe that goes beautifully with mung bean sheets, whii li an made of the same ingredients as cellophane noodles. The Chinese adore lish heads, since they aren't squeamish at all alxmi food and they know the meat is > est near the bone. I he traditional way ol serving a fish head is f rom an earl hen ware pot. 1'he pot is < an ted dim tly from the stove (o the table while (in- liquid is still huhblinx, because lish tastes best when it is piping hot. This is a one-dish meal, like...

Beef with Sha He Noodles

This dish of sliced beef and bean sprouts tossed with Sha He noodles would go very well with a cold salad such as Celery Cabbage with Dried Shrimp Salad page 305 , and Steamed Dumplings, Beijing-Style page 145 . 2 whole scallions, split and cut in 2-inch sections 4 tablespoons peanut oil or corn oil IV2 pounds soft Sha He noodle , in ' j-inch wide strips page 233 ' z teaspoon coarse salt V2 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon dry sherry or wiiii i 1 tablespoon peanut oil or...

Baked Yeast Dough Buns

Fvery cuisine has some kind of hot sandwich, and the Chinese is no exception. In fact, yeast dough buns, especially the delicate steamed variety, filled with either a sweet or a savory salty stuffing and always served hot, are enjoyed throughout China. We eat them as a snack or light meal, and in the north they are the daily bread. If the filling is sweet, the buns can be served as a dessert or breakfast pastry. Until now, however, Chinese yeast dough has been tricky, time consuming, and tiring...

Flaky Pastry Master Recipe

Su bing, Chinese flaky pastry, is a northern specialty usually reserved for 11' banquets. There are many traditional fillings, giving the pastry different names, such as Flaky Pastry Filled with Red Bean Paste page 181 , Flaky Pastry Filled with White Turnips and Ham page 185 , Flaky Pastry Egg Custard Tarts page 190 , as well as Flaky Pastry Baby Chicks and Daisies page 188 , but the basic dough is always the same. There are two ways to cook the pastry The first is deep-frying, the oil being...

Fried Wontons with Curry Filling

Deep-fried wontons are very popular with Americans. They like them served with a sweet-and-sour sauce on top or dipped in duck sauce, which also has a sweet-and-sour taste. The Chinese prefer them without sauce but with a strong-flavored filling. This curry filling is liked by both Amei icans and Chinese. It is moist and very exotic tasting. For this recipe buy the thin wrappers about 120 per pound . Have Vt cup of cold water ready in a dish. Cover the stack of wonton wrapper with a damp cloth...

Spring Roll Wrappers

The light brown fried wrappers filled with meat and vegetables, tailed egg rolls in Chinese restaurants here, are, in China, the Cantonese version of spring rolls. Like the brittle, pale white filled wrappers from Shanghai, they are one of the most important celebratory foods of the Chinese New Year. According to the Chinese lunar calendar, New Year's Day is also the first day of spring, hence the name. Cantonese spring rolls are made of noodle dough that has egg in it Shanghai spring rolls not...

Shrimp Roe Noodles

J Most Italian pasta is made from wheat, with or without eggs, and then t j formed into an endless array of imaginative shapes angel's hair, spaghetti, twists, bow-ties, and butterflies are only a few. Chinese noodles are almost always cut into two basic forms wide like fettucini or thin like spaghetti but its great variety derives from the many food products it is made from, such as wheat, rice, beans, tapioca, and other grains. Particularly with wheat noodles, other ingredients besides eggs...