Pain de Seigle

At the end of the first summer season I worked in Monte Carlo, I went to Nice with some friends to celebrate with dinner. We ordered enormous plateaux de fruits de mer large platters of mostly raw shellfish. 2. These were accompanied by thin slices of gray-looking bread served with butter. I took a bite of the bread, and then another, and then I identified the familiar taste rye bread The rye bread I knew back home was Jewish rye, while the French rye bread was 3. less crusty, but equally...

Honey Peanut Wafers

I owe the trick of using honey-roasted peanuts in this cookie recipe to my friend and mentor Maida Heatter. They add so much to the flavor of these cookies that I can't imagine preparing them with anything else. These are a little tricky to bake because they need to spread out and come to a boil on the pan. Watch them carefully and don't bake more than 2 pans at a time, and you'll be fine. Baking these on silicone baking mats makes the process much easier. Set racks in the upper and lower...

Leaveners

Baking powder Chemical leaveners, such as baking powder, produce carbon dioxide when an acid and alkali are combined in the presence of a liquid. Baking powder includes both the alkali and the acid The alkali is almost always baking soda. Starch, usually cornstarch, is also mixed into baking powder, both to stabilize it and to neutralize the chemical reaction, as well as to absorb the excess moisture in the air, which would cause caking and lack of potency. Almost all the baking powder...

Quick Brioche Braid

Brioche in any form is as elegantly rich and buttery as any pastry can be. This easy braid is made from a fast version of brioche dough immediately after it emerges from the food processor. The dough is quite soft, so don't handle it too much braiding the loaf directly on the pan where it will bake also makes the process much easier. 1. Heat the milk in a small saucepan until it is just lukewarm, about iio F (45 C). Pour the milk into a small bowl and whisk in the yeast. Use a small rubber...

Pita Bread

I was fascinated the first time I made pita and actually saw it puff into a balloon in the oven during its short baking time. My ideal pita is served at Moustache, a Middle Eastern restaurant near where I live in 5. Greenwich Village. It makes some of the best Middle Eastern food I have ever eaten. Their pita is large, puffy, and always baked to order it is a real treat. Pita is fun to make for a small, casual party. If your kitchen is large enough, let the guests help bake the bread while you...

Swiss Walnut Crescents

These walnut crescents, called nussgipfeli 2. in Swiss German dialect, quickly became favorites of mine when I worked at a hotel outside Zurich in the early 1970s. Leftover pastries from the previous day always appeared with our staff lunch, and if you were quick enough to be in the front of the line, you had a good selection to choose from. For me, it was either one of these or 3. a wedge of a typically Swiss version of a Linzertorte with a layer of kirsch-scented almond paste under the...

Banana Rum Coconut

Bananas make great cakes (and muffins, i. quick breads, tarts, and pie fillings). One thing about bananas, though, is they have to be ripe. Never use a banana for 2. baking if it is not at least dotted with brown spots or even darker or your cake won't have any banana flavor. And always mash 3. bananas with a fork or potato masher don't throw them in the food processor hand-mashed bananas impart a more vivid flavor to any batter or filling. I like whipped cream with this cake, but chocolate is...

Ginger Scented Panettone

This is a revved up version of the traditional 1. Italian Christmas cake. Originally a Milanese specialty, panettone is now popular all over Italy and excellent versions are made by both industrial and artisanal bakeries. I make one version or another of panettone around Christmas it reminds me of my 2. childhood when we hardly ever ate anything that wasn't Italian. A good panettone is moist and flavorful. In Italy it is almost always made with sourdough starter flour and water that ferments...

Mango Rice Tart

During my first trip to Thailand in June 2006, 1. I became absolutely crazy about every kind of Thai food and have since even bought the many ingredients necessary to prepare it at home. Mango and sticky rice is the quintessential Thai sweet, meant to be eaten between meals, though, and not necessarily as a dessert. I've used it as a 2. model for this tart filling, but I'm using quicker cooling Thai jasmine rice, a fragrant variety of long-grain rice easily available in Asian stores. I've also...

Sfincione Palermo Focaccia

While the crust is rising, prepare the topping. Pour . cup of the olive oil into a 10-inch saut pan and place over low to medium heat. Add the onion, and cook it slowly until it softens and begins to color lightly. Stir in the anchovies. 2. Add the tomato pur e and simmer the sauce just enough to diminish the raw tomato flavor, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, under-salting slightly. Scrape the sauce onto a plate or glass pie pan and place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes...

Neapolitan Meat Cheese

Pizza chiena is Neapolitan dialect for what would be called pizza ripiena or filled pizza in Italian. Originally this pastry was made like a giant turnover with a raw pizza crust the type used for a standard large individual pizza in Naples and filled with ricotta and cured meats before being folded over and baked. It is the ancestor of what pizzerias now call a calzone. By and by, the pizza crust was transformed into a pastry dough, though there are some versions of pizza chiena that use a...

Focaccia alla Barese

Apulian Onion, Anchovy, & Olive Focaccia This is a traditional Christmas Eve antipasto in Apulia. Please don't be repelled by the presence of the anchovies they melt into the topping and add a pleasant note of saltiness, but no strong fishy taste. My dear friend and second mother, Ann Amendolara Nurse, taught me to make this. While the crust is rising, prepare the topping. Pour about half of the olive oil into a 10-inch (25-cm) saut pan and place over low to medium heat. Add the onion...

Cornetti

I first saw Margherita Simili, the great Italian i. baker, demonstrate how to make these rolls at the old Peter Kump's Cooking School in the late 1980s. Margherita was in the United States to visit and teach at numerous cooking schools. Marcella Hazan, whom 2. she helped back then with her classes in Bologna by doing all the pasta, pastry, and breads, accompanied her that day. 3. These rolls are both beautiful and delicious, but require just a little bit of practice to get right. The shaping is...

Spicy Hazelnut Biscotti

The model for this recipe is an old i. Sicilian cookie called biscotti Napoletani (Neapolitan biscotti). Why a Sicilian cookie should be called Neapolitan is beyond 2. me, but the recipe was shared in the late 1980s by Salvatore Maggio when I visited his pastry shop in Trapani, on the west coast of Sicily. I've made a lot of adjustments to the recipe over the years, and recently tried 3. spicing it up, and it worked perfectly. Please notice that there are two quantities of hazelnuts in the...

Pineapple Tarte Tatin

Caramel and pineapple are a perfect 1. combination of flavors, especially when they rest on a buttery puff pastry crust. There are dozens of ways to make a tarte tatin, but this is one I've used for years with good results First you caramelize some sugar and butter in a nonstick saut pan. Then the fruit goes in and it's topped with a disk 2. of puff pastry. The tart is baked at a high temperature, just long enough so that the dough bakes through. A few minutes after it emerges from the oven,...

Viennese Raisin Coffee Cake

Vienna is the undisputed world capital of 1. cake. There are layer cakes, mousse cakes, historical cakes (the Sachertorte of the Hotel Sacher has been a closely guarded secret 2. recipe for over 200 years), and even plain cakes. I recently asked my friend Erika Lieben for her favorite. She wrote back a 3. 4-word response Gehruerter Gugelhupf mit Rosinen (beaten coffee cake with raisins). Beaten refers to the fact that this is mixed like a cake batter and is not the yeast-risen coffee cake...

Spicy Jalapeno Cornbread

This qualifies as more of a Southwestern 1. American version of cornbread than a Mexican one, but it does embody some of the typical flavors of Mexican food namely jalapenos, scallions, and cilantro. The cornbread can stand alone without 2. these seasonings you may also increase or decrease any of them according to your own taste. Jalapenos vary widely in heat 3. some have none at all others are fiercely hot. The only way to determine this is to taste a little bit of each one you cut up if...

Seven Grain Seed Bread

Lots of recipes for multigrain breads simply 4. call for adding a 5-, 7-, or 9-grain breakfast cereal to some fairly simple bread dough. This recipe goes one step further by including flavorful grains and seeds that bake into a loaf with excellent texture. The best place to shop for these ingredients is a health-food store or a supermarket that has 5. a bulk foods department. Please don't be afraid to ask for a taste of the items you purchase, especially the seeds, since they can become rancid...

Instant Puff Pastry

What makes this puff pastry faster is the elimination of multiple rollings and foldings as it requires only one round. Plus, there are no separate butter and dough mixtures everything goes into the food processor and the finished dough emerges minutes later. As with any butter-rich dough, make sure everything is cool, especially the kitchen, or you'll wind up with a dough that has the consistency of mashed potatoes and will be about as easy to roll out. This recipe makes an ample batch of dough...

Ham Egg Tart

Ham and eggs go well together no matter how you combine them. I like small dices of ham in scrambled eggs, and a slice of ham cooked with fried eggs. This pie combines them in a new way and is perfect for breakfast, brunch, or lunch. The good news is that you can have the crust chilling (from the day before, if need be) and the ham and completed filling ready to go, so you'll just need to fill the crust and bake it in time to serve a beautifully puffed tart hot from the oven. By the way, this...

Tart Lime Wafers

This recipe comes from my friend Tim i. Brennan, chef-owner of Cravings Gourmet Desserts in Saint Louis. Tim is justly well known for his excellent cookies and these are no exception. They're also practical since you can freeze the formed logs of 2. dough for weeks and then slice and bake the cookies whenever you need them. For the dough, mix the flour, sugar, salt, and lime zest in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse i0 times to reduce the zest to smaller particles....

Armenian Barbary Bread

There's a bit of a debate as to whether this 3. is an Afghan, Armenian, or Iranian bread. I've seen and tasted it at the Armenian bakeries in Watertown, Massachusetts. 4. Most have a couple of different versions, one that they make, and another imported from Canada that's larger, whiter, and tastes more industrial made. Basically, berberi, or barbary, bread is a long, oval flatbread, 5. dimpled on top and sometimes sprinkled with black sesame or nigella seeds. It's light and tender and makes a...

Pecorino Pepper Biscuits

Baking-powder biscuits and cheese are a i. natural combination, but I like the cheese to be completely absorbed into the dough rather than appearing as little lumps in the 2. baked biscuits, as it often does in traditional cheese biscuits. Grating the cheese finely and then giving it a spin in the food 3. processor with the butter does the trick. By the way, resist the temptation to try any kind of blue-veined cheese in this recipe, unless you really like gray biscuits. Also, the amount of salt...

Breton Apple

A g teau Breton is a wonderful French cake, 1. very much like a dense pound cake, and a specialty of Brittany. This nontraditional version adds a cooked apple filling between the two layers of dough. The crust is easy to prepare you just press it into the pan. For the top crust you'll need a couple of cake cardboards or tart pan bottoms the same diameter as the pan. My dear friend Stephanie Weaver gave me this recipe close to 30 years ago and I have made it countless times, always to rave...

One Step Croissants

My standard croissant recipe calls for an i. 8-hour to overnight chill after the dough is mixed, then begins the process of layering the dough with the butter and rolling and folding it repeatedly. After all that, you have 2. to chill the dough again before rolling it out to make the croissants. In this method, the mixing is accomplished in the food processor and the dough is rolled and folded once instead of several times. After a short rise, the dough is ready to be made into croissants. I've...

Be Modern Baker

Time-saving techniques for breads, tarts, pies, cakes, & cookies London, New York, Melbourne, Munich, and Delhi Creative Direction & Art Director Dirk Kaufman Executive Managing Editor Sharon Lucas 08 09 10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 CDi99 September 2008 Copyright 2008 DK Publishing Text Copyright Nick Malgieri All rights reserved Design & Art Direction Gary Tooth Empire Design Studio Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be...

Cornmeal Buttermilk Waffles

The night before you intend to serve the waffles, heat the milk in a small pan to just lukewarm, about 1 io F (45 C). Pour it into a small bowl and whisk in the yeast. 2. Combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, and baking soda in a large mixing bowl and stir well to mix. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk the buttermilk, butter, and eggs together smoothly. 4. Add the buttermilk mixture and the milk and yeast mixture to the dry ingredients and gently whisk everything together until smooth. Tightly...

Pine Nut Macaroons

These are a great favorite whenever they i. appear, and justly so the deep, nutty flavor of the toasted pine nuts accentuates the smooth sweetness of the macaroons 2. perfectly. Always use canned almond paste for preparing macaroons the kind that comes packaged as a little cylinder has a lot more sugar in it and will result in macaroons that flatten out miserably 3. Set racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 375 F (i90 C). Combine the almond paste, granulated sugar, and...

Sicilian Fig Bars

Although fig bars are standard American fare, fig-filled cookies are also very traditional in Sicily, where they are called cucidati. I've decided to merge the two and make a fig bar that is shaped like the industrially made one, but has some typical Sicilian seasonings in it for extra flavor. 1. To make the filling, use kitchen scissors to snip the stems from the figs (they are very sharp and hard), and snip each fig into 5 or 6 pieces. In a large saucepan, combine the figs, water, apricot...

Blueberry Crumble

It will come as no surprise to anyone who i. knows me that I like to use a sweet dough for fruit pies. There's something homey and comforting about that tender dough 2. wrapped around a juicy fruit filling that a flaky dough just can't match. And it's especially good when complemented with the slightly spicy flavor of fresh blueberries. I've used the following method for blueberry, cherry, and rhubarb pies for about 20 years now, and I think it results in a nicely thickened filling that doesn't...

Yeast Risen Specialties

It's difficult to create a blanket definition that covers the recipes in this chapter, both because they overlap so much with bread recipes, and because yeast-risen specialties can be so different from one another. Most of the recipes here originated using a plain bread dough as a base. In the case of the sweet variations, butter, eggs, sugar, and enrichments such as dried or candied fruit, nuts, toppings, and fillings transformed them. In the savory variations, different methods of shaping,...

Heirloom Chocolate Cake

My friend Loretta Keller, chef owner of the popular San Francisco restaurant Coco 500, recently shared this recipe for an over-the-top rich chocolate cake. Loretta serves the cake with a little whipped cream. Set a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 4oo F (2oo C). Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Place the butter in a heatproof mixing bowl and place over the simmering water. Stir occasionally until melted. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and whisk smooth. serving...

Apricot Almond Strudel

The Viennese Hungarian tradition offers many ways to prepare a strudel, using doughs as diverse as yeast doughs, cookie doughs, and even puff pastry. The strudel here is made from puff pastry, but instead of the dough being rolled around the filling, the filling is stacked between two layers of dough. The top layer of dough is slashed to let steam escape. I have provided lots of 3. possibilities for variations. If you decide to use canned apricots for this, try to find the type packed in...

Sour Cream Brownies

The presence of sour cream in this brownie batter makes them extra moist and helps to cut back a little on the sweetness. I like to make these with walnuts, but pecans are just as good. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 F (i8o C). Put the cut-up butter in a medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Let the butter melt, stirring 2 to 3 times, then allow it to bubble for about io seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate. Gently shake the pan to submerge...

Parisian Fruit Tarts

This type of tart a cookie dough crust, 1. covered with a thin layer of pastry cream and topped with an assortment of glazed fruit has been the mainstay of pastry shops in Paris and many other cities for the better part of a century. In the past, the fruit was carefully arranged in concentric rows in the crust and then painted with a simple glaze. Nowadays the fruit is mixed together with the glaze fruit-salad style, resulting in a tart that is more casual, and manages to pack in a lot more...

Cocoa Nib Brownies

Cocoa nibs are a relatively new baking 1. ingredient. Nibs are cocoa beans that have gone through fermenting, roasting, crushing, and skinning processes, and then 2. are usually used to make chocolate. Pastry chefs began procuring them from chocolate manufacturers and adding them to cookie dough in the way you might add chopped nuts, except cocoa nibs, of course, have a bittersweet chocolate flavor. Now cocoa nibs are fairly easy to find under several brands. Nibs are unsweetened, so they have...

Tomato Cantal Tart

This recipe comes from my late friend, 1. cooking-school owner Peter Kump. Peter always made this tart for summer parties at his house in East Hampton on Long Island. 2. The secret of its success lies in having perfectly ripe tomatoes, which you can only get during the summer from your own 3. garden or at a farmer's market. I was so eager to prepare this once during the winter that I experimented with baking sliced plum (Roma) tomatoes with a little salt and sugar and it worked perfectly. See...

Bakery Crumb Buns

When I was a child, these crumb buns were 1. available in any number of local bakeries near where we lived. Born a crumb-topping addict, I always looked forward to slowly picking off large pieces of the generous topping to enjoy first. Somehow there was 2. always enough still stuck to the cake below to provide a second course from the bun. Although I learned to make many different and delicious types of crumb toppings in the ensuing years, none of them ever had the rich, dense quality of the...

Real Welsh Scones

One of my dearest friends, Kyra Effren, lives i. in Dallas but spends part of every year with her mother in Cape Town, South Africa. While Kyra is there, she bakes scones for her 2. mother, who was born in Wales and knows good scones, almost every day. These are easy to mix in the food processor up to a point. I like to pour the powdery mixture into a bowl before adding the liquid so the dough doesn't get overworked and tough 3. in the machine. Set a rack in the middle level of the oven and...

Cookies Bars Biscotti

Cookies are so universally loved that the word itself is used as a term of endearment. Aside from the fact that you get multiples not easy to manage with other types of baked treats cookies are fast and easy to prepare. Many recipes just need to have the ingredients stirred together and the resulting dough dropped from a spoon onto a cookie sheet, or spread in a pan to be cut into bars after baking. Of course, that's not the whole cookie story some of these recipes do have more steps, such as...

Blueberry Crumb Cake

In New York City where I live, blueberry season is fairly long since we have blueberries from the South, then New Jersey, then finally from Maine and Michigan, consecutively throughout several months. I love this type of cake and blueberries are the perfect fruit for it they melt to a jamlike consistency between the cake batter and crumb topping while the cake is baking. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 35o F i8o C . For the crumb topping, mix the flour, baking powder,...